Madagascar is a place quite unlike anywhere else. Adrift and isolated off the southeastern coast of Africa for millions of years, many endemic plants and animals evolved here making this huge island a biodiversity hotspot. Dozens of lemur species, bright chameleons, cryptic geckos and fat upside-down baobab trees can all be found only here. Despite the island's rich biodiversity, it is one of the most challenging and least developed countries in the world. Curious to experience the juxtapositions for myself, I traveled across the central highlands, down muddy rivers to the Mozambique Channel and back again. Many adventures, and mis-adventures followed ...