Madagascar

Madagascar is a place quite unlike anywhere else. Adrift and isolated off the southeastern coast of Africa for millions of years, many endemic plants and animals evolved here making this huge island a biodiversity hotspot. Dozens of lemur species, bright chameleons, cryptic geckos and fat upside-down baobab trees can all be found only here. Despite the island's rich biodiversity, it is one of the most challenging and least developed countries in the world. Curious to experience the juxtapositions for myself, I traveled across the central highlands, down muddy rivers to the Mozambique Channel and back again. Many adventures, and mis-adventures followed ...

A little man with a big smile. Families are big here and Madagascar has one of the youngest populations in the world. Lots of kids in every village.

We spent two days canoeing down the Tsiribihima River. On the first night we had a close encounter with pirates, narrowly escaping downriver in the middle of the night.

Village dogs play at the end of a beautiful day along le avenue de baobabs.

The avenue of the baobabs. Western Madagascar is famed for it's dry spiny forests and towering, otherworldly baobob trees.

A Parson's Chameleon blends in with the tangled vines and dappled green foliage of Madagascar's eastern rainforest.

A group of Red-fronted Lemurs seems to almost blend in with the sandstone cliffs as they forage along the banks of the Tsiribihima River. Madagascar is famous for its lemurs, a distinct group of primates evolved here and found nowhere else on Earth.… — A group of Red-fronted Lemurs seems to almost blend in with the sandstone cliffs as they forage along the banks of the Tsiribihima River. Madagascar is famous for its lemurs, a distinct group of primates evolved here and found nowhere else on Earth.

A girl and her sister observe the spectacle of aliens from another planet canoeing into their village. In rural Madagascar 'raza', or white ones elicit surprise.

Close encounters of the lemur kind: this is a Common Brown Lemur, one of many species found in the lush eastern rainforests.

The hazy air and fading light create a panorama of dusty orange as Zebu cattle are herded across the Tsiribihima River for the night.

Enchanted Island

Mark Twain once said, "Mauritius was made first, and then heaven, and that heaven was copied after Mauritius." Traversing this amazingly diverse island adrift in the Indian Ocean, I can readily agree, Mauritius is a paradise. Rugged volcanic mountains, cascading waterfalls, tropical forests and stunningly beautiful beaches surrounded by coral lagoons all create a dreamscape of land and sea, heaven and Earth.

Dozens of islands, large and small, surround Mauritius's coastline.

The western side of the island faces away from the vastness of the Indian Ocean and towards the setting sun.

On any given day the ever changing sea creates a watercolour of blues, greens and indigos.

The bright colours of a Mauritian Ornate Day Gecko 'pop' from a drab wall.

A water lotus rises from a still pool in the Pamplemousse Botanic Gardens.

Afternoon light beckons visitors down the forested trails that crisscross Bras D'Eeu National Park.

The mountainous landscape of Le Morne Brabant, a hulking basalt mountain and world heritage site, looks like the landscape of another country.

Seemingly endless waterfalls tumble down the vertiginous canyons in Black River Gorge National Park.

Much of Mauritius's landscape today looks like this: sweeping sugar cane fields crisscrossed by dusty red roads punctuated by dramatic mountainous outcrops towering above the plain.

Delicious Mauritius

Mauritius is a small island nation but has a hugely diverse food culture. Traded back and forth for centuries by competing colonial powers influenced the cuisine. Later, successive waves of Indian workers, African slaves and Chinese merchants all contributed distinct culinary legacies. Today Mauritius blends together French, Indian and Creole flavours to great effect. An abundance of fresh seafood, great rums, local produce and tropical fruits all make Mauritius oh so delicious.

Colourful crustaceans for sale in Grand Bai.

Rotis are the go-to snack here: thin warm flatbreads rolled with a dollop of curried broad beans, pickled mango and green chili. — Rotis are the go-to snack here: thin warm flatbreads rolled with a dollop of curried broad beans, pickled mango and green chili.

These unicorn fish - named for the spike on their heads - are a favourite fish to eat grilled with rum on account of their oily flesh.

Fresh vegetables and hot chilis for sale beckon shoppers at the Wednesday market in Flacq - one of the largest on the island.

Who doesn't love a good banana? Tropical fruits like bananas, mango, lychee and papaya make this the place for fruit lovers.

Colorful snapper and triggerfish line a fishermen's basket along the south coast.

Road side oysters for sale on the half shell. Only 10 rupees a pop.

Spices for sale at the market in Mahebourg.

A food stall in Grand Bai proclaims its creole menu in bright kitschy fashion. Hawker stalls like this dot the island selling everything from samosas to fresh fruit to ice cream.

Sea Horses

Located off the southeasterly coast of Madagascar and surrounded by the Indian Ocean, the island country of Mauritius is a paradise of beautiful beaches and reefs, diverse peoples and cuisine. What is less known about Mauritius is the countries deep love of horses, and it's unusual role as a quarantine station for South African thoroughbreds on their way to Europe and Dubai. Staying with a horse trainer friend I've been given a sneak peak into this fascinating world, getting to know the beautiful horses that stop-over here and the riders, grooms and trainers that keep them fit and in training. A beach photo shoot of the horses of Mauritius ...

Great Southwest

Southwest Australia is earthy and elemental. Though only a small part of the continent's landmass, the Southwest is Australia's only globally recognized biodiversity hotspot. Here the Southern Ocean and Indian Ocean collide, shaping distinct microclimates that support diverse forest and vegetation zones. Because of this complexity, the southwest is a wonderland of nature: rugged, wind-battered coastlines, big rivers and towering karri forests stand side by side. Cool, rainy winters and long dry summers also create the ideal climate for growing wine, making this one of the world's great wine producing regions and a gastronomic hub of artisanal foods. Together land and sea, wildlife and wine - the Southwest has something for everyone and much to discover.

The wind sculpted coastline of Cape Leeuwin, where the Southern Ocean and Indian Ocean collide.

Natural art: the flotsam of the southern ocean tossed up on the beach creates a mosaic of colors, shapes and forms.

Natural art: the bright colors and organic shapes of lichens adorn craggy boulders like an abstract piece.

Large tracts of towering karri and jarrah forests are found throughout the southwest. These are amongst the tallest trees in all of Australia. Wildlife like Western Rosellas, Western Grey Kangaroos and Emus can all be found within these great p… — Large tracts of towering karri and jarrah forests are found throughout the southwest. These are amongst the tallest trees in all of Australia. Wildlife like Western Rosellas, Western Grey Kangaroos and Emus can all be found within these great primeval forests.

The cool, rainy winters and hot, dry summers of the southwest create ideal conditions for growing grapes. Many small, family-run vineyards dot the countryside, such as Singlefile Vineyards near the town of Denmark - founded by a South African f… — The cool, rainy winters and hot, dry summers of the southwest create ideal conditions for growing grapes. Many small, family-run vineyards dot the countryside, such as Singlefile Vineyards near the town of Denmark - founded by a South African family who moved here, hence the protea flowers.

For anyone who appreciates learning about where there food is produced and enjoying local flavors, the southwest abounds in artisanal food and drink. Though the Margaret River area is most well known, other southwest regions also produce qualit… — For anyone who appreciates learning about where there food is produced and enjoying local flavors, the southwest abounds in artisanal food and drink. Though the Margaret River area is most well known, other southwest regions also produce quality chardonnay and pinot noir grape varieties. Local cheeses, truffles, olive oil, seafood and more are also on offer in this gastronomic hub of food and drink.

Funky grass trees pop up from the forest like something from a Dr. Seuss book. Recognized as a hotspot of floristic diversity, this region is famed for it's unusual plants and spring wildflowers.

Tannin stained rivers gush after heavy rain in the forests around the Franklin River Valley. A vast mosaic of national parks, forestry and nature reserves protect much of the southwest's wilderness.

A young Western-Grey Kangaroo 'buck' stands his ground between me and his nearby 'mob'. Winter rain and lush vegetation support healthy mobs of kangaroos and foraging emus.

Rugged cliffs and ferocious winds buffet Point D'Entrecasteaux, the most southerly part of western Australia. Accessed through the aptly named village of Windy Harbor, this national park is wild and remote. Encompassing rugged coastline, feral bush … — Rugged cliffs and ferocious winds buffet Point D'Entrecasteaux, the most southerly part of western Australia. Accessed through the aptly named village of Windy Harbor, this national park is wild and remote. Encompassing rugged coastline, feral bush and towering forests D'Entrecasteaux is the southwest at it's best. Pummeled by the wind, standing atop these cliffs it is possible to spot migrating Humpback and Southern Right Whales in season, while gazing out over miles of wild ocean.

Great Barrier Reef

The Great Barrier Reef is the largest living thing on Earth. Hugging Queensland's northern coast, countless marine creatures thrive here making this one of the most biodiverse places on our planet and a world heritage site. Our Wildands group based ourselves at Orpheus Island Research Station for the final weeks of our course, where we were able to meet inspiring researchers and explore this island paradise of sandy beaches, mangroves and gorgeous undersea reefs.

Camped out at Yanks Jetty we shared our little stretch of coastline with sea turtles, ospreys and nursing humpback whales. The sandy beach also made the perfect backdrop for hilarious games and epic sunset silhouettes! — Camped out at Yanks Jetty we shared our little stretch of coastline with sea turtles, ospreys and nursing humpback whales. The sandy beach also made the perfect backdrop for hilarious games and epic sunset silhouettes!

A stingray hunts the exposed reef at low tide searching for small creatures to eat, while avoiding being eaten itself in the open sea beyond. — A stingray hunts the exposed reef at low tide searching for small creatures to eat, while avoiding being eaten itself in the open sea beyond.

Mangroves fringe many low-lying areas of the GBR's many islands and lagoons. These incredibly adapted plants stabilize the shore and are nursery grounds for countless species.

A tall ship plying the edge of the distant mainland harkens back to days past when Captain Cook first sailed up these coasts in 1770. Charting Terra Australis, the Endeavor's crew 'discovered' the Great Barrier Reef by literally running aground on i… — A tall ship plying the edge of the distant mainland harkens back to days past when Captain Cook first sailed up these coasts in 1770. Charting Terra Australis, the Endeavor's crew 'discovered' the Great Barrier Reef by literally running aground on it.

A massive boxfish lies marooned in a shallow pool during an unusually low tide. Many such wonders await to be discovered at the intertidal zone.

Camped on Orpheus's western side we were treated to epic sunsets and near perfect weather during our stay.

Christy, Daniel, Lydia, Logan and Kara pause for a group photo after another fantastic day at Orpheus Island National Park. We had just returned from doing a sunset creative writing session on the point, reflecting and quietly watching the shadows l… — Christy, Daniel, Lydia, Logan and Kara pause for a group photo after another fantastic day at Orpheus Island National Park. We had just returned from doing a sunset creative writing session on the point, reflecting and quietly watching the shadows lengthen while observing a mother and calf humpback only meters away in the harbors still waters.

Lydia spotted this reef octopus exploring pioneer bay's exposed reefs. Stealthy, cryptic and incredibly cool, it was a rare find!

Beneath the waves numerous species of both hard and soft corals populate the island's fringing reefs. Stag horn corals, platform corals, huge boulder corals and many more.

After six weeks exploring the Wet Tropics world heritage area, our time on the Great Barrier Reef was a fitting end to reflect back on what has been an amazing course. The diverse landscapes and wildlife, dedicated conservationists we have met and m… — After six weeks exploring the Wet Tropics world heritage area, our time on the Great Barrier Reef was a fitting end to reflect back on what has been an amazing course. The diverse landscapes and wildlife, dedicated conservationists we have met and many memories we've made together will stay with us a lifetime.

Australian wild lands

Visiting the Atherton Tablelands our Wildlands group encountered unusual creatures such as platypus, tree-kangaroos and cassowaries. Learning how local conservationists are working to restore and re-wild these upland rainforests, we next set off on a multi-day backpack across Hitchinbrook Island, one of the largest remaining tropical wilderness areas on the Queensland coast.

The massive buttress roots of large rainforest trees anchor the the soil in place, while providing habitat for many other plants and animals to thrive in the Atherton Tablelands

A Hercules Moth - one of the largest moth species in the world - blends in well with the cryptic bark of a eucalyptus tree

The rugged terrain of Hitchinbrook Island provides ample hiking and adventure opportunities for our group

A blue-bird day and epic views over the Pacific from atop Nina peak

Over four days our Wildlands group backpacked the entire length of Hithcinbrook's wild coastline

Subjected to the whims of the tides our group navigated swamps, bogs, mountainous terrain and many river crossings

A deep pool provides a much deserved respite after a long days hike

Rugged acacia and eucalyptus heath characterize the uplands of Hitchinbrook

Along the tidal flats and sandy beaches many curiosities await to be found, washed up on the tide

Four days later our Wildlands group arrived trimphantly from the forest, having traversed the rugged terrain of Hitchinbrook. Looking eastwards, Orpheus Island and the Great Barrier Reef awaits

Welcome on country

The Cape York Peninsula in far north Queensland is rugged country. Bordered for hundreds of miles by the Great Barrier Reef, a narrow hinterland of wet tropical rainforest straddles the edge of the dry and dusty outback. Welcomed on country by friends from the Kuku-Yalanji clan - the traditional aboriginal owners of this country - our Wildlands group was able to get a taste of this incredible landscape and the people and wildlife that have called it home for centuries.

The sun recedes west across the Endeavor River near Cooktown in far north Queensland

The elaborate 'bower' nest display of a Great Bowerbird

Hosts from the Kuku-Yalanji clan give us a traditional welcome on country

The rivers, wetlands and coastal lagoons of northern Australia are home to a healthy population of 'salties' or Estuarine Crocodiles. These ancient predators can grow over 5 meters, making it imperative to be 'croc-wise' in croc country

Away from the crocs, the mountainous hinterlands are awash in gorgeous, hidden swimming holes

Matt and Horace getting an earthen oven feast together on our last night at Shipton's Flats

These ancient rock art paintings near the village of Laura in the Queensland outback were still over 11,000 years old when Christ was born.

This massive paperbark tree thrives in the watery oasis of a riverbank in the otherwise dry bush near Chillagoe

A boulder balances precariously in the dry ranges near Chillagoe. With some of the most ancient rocks in the world, Australia is a wonderland of geology — A boulder balances precariously in the dry ranges near Chillagoe. With some of the most ancient rocks in the world, Australia is a wonderland of geology

Heading off sealed roads by four wheel drive the dry red dirt of Australia beckons us westward towards the setting sun

Tropic of Capricorn

In far northeastern Australia two world heritage areas meet: the ancient rainforests of the wet tropics and the great barrier reef. Straddling the Tropic of Capricorn this beguiling region is where two of our planet's most astounding ecosystems collide, sheltering creatures ranging from wallabies to whale sharks.

Predators like snakes come alive at night in the rainforest

A cheeky Sulphur-crested Cockatoo looks down his beak at us on Fitzroy Island

Fan palms 'pop' in the Daintree rainforest

A lesson with aboriginal elders at Yurrabah

Enjoying a yarn around the fire with aboriginal elders at Yurrabah

A huge preying mantis is one of many small wonders to be found in the wet tropics

Home to many ancient plant families, wild tropical fruits abound in the Daintree

Low tide exposes a labyrinth of mangrove roots along the wild edge of far northern Queensland

Summer solstice

Spring is one of the most beautiful and ephemeral seasons in Virginia as the days lengthen to summer. This year was particularly cool, green and lovely. A few memories savoring the season's change celebrating the solstice and chasing the light ...

Brooding storm clouds scrape across sky meadows.

Enjoying a cocktail and a laugh at a race day tailgate. Watch out for the bobcat!

A blue-bird day at the Middleburg races.

Braving fierce winds high atop Mary's Rock in the Shenandoah for epic views west to the Allegheny.

Afternoon stroll over the hills with Catheryne and Nina.

Sunset paddles searching the forests for spring migrants.

Welcome to my new site!

Well, it's been a long time coming, but the new site is finally here! Please browse through my work, explore and share. Updates coming soon.

Thanks!

Jesse